Beet and Tomato Ragout with Twice Baked Souffles

I made this ragout for Christmas dinner, and I loved it. I think everyone else liked it, too. The beets were a little too firm in texture, but the flavor was excellent. Both the beets and the souffles can be prepared in advance, and then reheated when you're ready to eat. This made it easy to have dinner ready when everyone had arrived, eaten some appetizers, and relaxed a little. The twice-baked goat cheese souffles are delicious and easy. If you have leftover souffles, you can rewarm them in the oven by pouring a little cream over the top of them and baking them for 20 minutes. This causes them to puff up again and be really beautiful and tasty.

The recipe recommended serving this with baby bok choy, but I made leeks in mustard vinaigrette instead. I also made brussels sprouts, which my family enjoyed immensely. With all the yummy butter and garlic, it's hard to go wrong.

I wasn't sure how big a large beet would be, so I used 6 medium beets instead of 4 large beets.

Let's get started

First, make the souffles through their first baking. Here's the full recipe for twice-baked goat cheese souffles.

Then, prepare the vegetables for the ragout. Finely dice 1 medium red onion. Peel and cut 4 large beets into irregular 1/2 inch dice. Dice one cup fresh tomatoes with their juices, or you can use 1 can of diced tomatoes, preferably organic. Since it was winter when I made this, I used the canned tomatoes. The recipe said to use 1 cup of canned tomatoes, but I used the whole 14 oz. can. Chop 2 T. tarragon, and 1 small garlic clove.

Melt 1 T. butter in a medium saute pan. Add the onion and cook over medium heat until it starts to color, about 7-10 minutes. Stir in 1 T. tomato paste, 1 T. brown sugar, the chopped garlic clove, a pinch of the tarragon, and 1 cup water. Simmer about 20 minutes until the onions are soft and the liquid is reduced. Add the beets and tomatoes, season with salt and pepper to taste. Cook another 25-30 minutes, adding more water as needed so there is a little sauce at the end. Add 2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar and 1 T. tarragon. (The rest of the tarragon will be used for garnish at the end.)

Twenty five minutes before you eat, heat the oven for the second baking of the souffles. (See recipe link above.) Reheat the beets. Serve the beets on each plate along with some of the sauce, placing a souffle on top of the beets. Garnish with the remaining tarragon.

Serve with a green vegetable such as bok choy with butter and tarragon, brussels sprouts with butter and garlic, or steamed leeks with mustard vinaigrette.

Cost to prepare

4 large beets - $3.60

1 medium red onion - $.80

2 T. chopped tarragon - $1.00

1 T. tomato paste - $.25

1 T. brown sugar - negligible

1 small garlic clove - negligible

1 14-oz can diced tomatoes - $1.00 or 1 cup fresh tomatoes - $1.00

salt, pepper, balsamic vinegar - negligible

TOTAL cost of beet dish alone - $6.65 for 4 or more servings. There were 5 of us for dinner and we had leftovers, but we also had appetizers and several other dishes for dinner.

TOTAL cost of souffles - $9.80 for 8-10 individual souffles.

When beets are in season from the farm, I will try making this with brown and wild rice instead of the souffles. This is a lovely and tasty dish for company.

Mushroom and Tofu Saute with Rice Noodles

I made this for my family on Thanksgiving weekend. The asian flavors were a welcome break from the usual Thanksgiving fare that everyone had the day before. I loved it and everyone else seemed to enjoy it, too. This would make an excellent weeknight meal. I used very skinny rice noodles because that was all I could find. I think it would be better with wider rice noodles, or maybe even soba or udon noodles. This was fairly simple to prepare and it only took about half an hour.

Let's get started

• Cook the rice noodles in boiling, salted water according to package directions. Drain, rinse with cold water to stop the cooking, and set aside.
• Cut one block of firm tofu into bite sized cubes. Simmer in boiling water for 2 minutes. Lift cubes out of the water and set them in a colander to drain.
• In a small bowl, combine 2 t. tamari or mushroom soy sauce, 3 T. naturally brewed soy sauce, and 2 T. brown sugar.
• Chop together 2 cloves garlic, 3 T. fresh tarragon, 1/2 t. salt, and freshly ground pepper. (I know 3 T. sounds like a lot of tarragon, but it blends beautifully into the dish. Don't be shy about using the full 3 T. of tarragon. This is almost a full bunch if you buy it at the supermarket.)
• Clean and trim 1 pound mushrooms, including some shiitakes, if possible. Cut into quarters or thick slices.
• Finely dice one large shallot (about 1/2 cup total)
• Heat a little peanut oil (or vegetable oil) in a skillet. Add the garlic mixture and stir fry for 20 seconds or so, then add the mushrooms and shallot. Saute over high heat until the juices have been released and then reabsorbed and the mushrooms have started to brown, (7 - 10 minutes).
• While that is cooking, finely slice 4 green onions and set aside.
• Add the tofu, followed by the soy mixture and the cooked noodles.
• Mix gently, taste for salt, transfer to a platter and serve garnished with green onions.

Things I'd do differently next time: Use wider rice noodles, or experiment with other types of noodles. This would also be good over rice.

Cost to prepare

3/4 pound mushrooms (white and cremini mix) - $3.75

1/4 pound shiitake mushrooms - $2.50

3 T. chopped tarragon - $1.50

3 T. chopped garlic (2-3 cloves) - $.30

1 carton firm tofu - $1.50

soy sauces - $1.00 (?)

1 large shallot - $.75

4 scallions - $.25

6 ounces dried rice noodles - $1.00

TOTAL - $12.55 for 4 people

Suggested wine - a spicy, dry Gewurztraminer

Brussels Sprout and Mushroom Ragout with herb dumplings

Ok. How's this for an impulse buy? I was at the supermarket yesterday, and I saw these beautiful, bright green brussels sprouts, and I just had to have some. I knew I had a recipe to do that featured them, but I had no idea what else was in it. I have never cooked a brussels sprout in my life, but for reasons unknown, I had to have them.

Well as it turned out, I had everything else for the recipe in the house - sort of. We just got some gourmet "royal trumpet" mushrooms in our CSA box, so I figured those could stand in for the mushrooms called for in the recipe. I was supposed to have 3/4 pound of mushrooms for the recipe, and I only had 4 ounces of the gourmet mushrooms, so I went to my pantry and pulled out a small handful of dried porcini mushrooms. I covered them with hot water, let them soak for 15 minutes, and then drained off the mushroomy broth to use in the recipe.

For those of you who haven't made friends with brussels sprouts in your adult life - now is the time. They are delicate and delicious when not boiled into a mushy mess. This dish is warm, earthy, and satisfying. I used sweet onions which made the broth pleasantly sweet and went well with the tarragon. It took me about 40 minutes to make, but would be closer to an hour if you make the stock.

This recipe begins by asking you to make mushroom stock - which is delicious and well worth the extra time, but I happened to have some on hand from the last time I made it. Yay! (You can find the instructions for the mushroom stock here.)

This was also my first time making dumplings, which are much easier than I imagined. This meal did feature a lot of dirty dishes, but it was well worth it. There are several steps, so I'll do this more like a regular recipe.

1. Make the mushroom stock. See above.

2. While that is cooking, put on a pot of water to boil for the brussels sprouts. Rinse the brussels sprouts and cut them in half or quarters. (I cut them in half, but then they were too big to eat in one bite in the finished ragout. I think quarters is better unless your sprouts are quite small.) Set them aside to be ready when the water boils.

3. Heat 1 T. olive oil in a skillet and slice up 2 onions. I highly recommend sweet onions for this dish. Saute the onions over medium heat until nicely colored - 12 to 15 minutes.

4. While the onions saute, chop 5 T. parsley and 2 T. tarragon. Separate the herbs into 2 piles: 3 T. parsley and 1 T. tarragon will go in with the onions; the rest will go into the dumplings.

5. Mince 1 clove garlic, and the mushrooms. Use 3/4 pound white, crimini, shiitake, or a mixture. (Or whatever you have on hand.)

6. When the onions are nicely colored, stir in the herbs, garlic, and mushrooms.

7. Squeeze half a lemon over the onion and mushroom mixture. Turn up the heat and saute until the mushrooms are browned in places (5-7 minutes.) Then lower the heat to low.

8. When the water boils, add salt. Cook the brussels sprouts for 5 minutes, or until they are tender when you poke them with a fork. Drain.

9. Add the brussels sprouts and the mushroom broth to the pan with the onions and mushrooms. (I used about 2 cups of broth, but it could handle a little more than that.) Taste for seasoning.

10. Turn off the heat while you make the dumplings.

11. To make the dumplings, combine the following dry ingredients, and then stir in the wet ingredients:

• 1 cup flour
• 1 t. baking powder
• a pinch of salt
• 3/4 cup milk warmed with 3 T. butter or oil
• 1 egg
• the tarragon/parsley mixture you set aside earlier

12. Return the ragout to low heat, and drop spoonfuls of batter into the warm liquid. Cover (or tent with foil if you need more room), and cook on low for 10 minutes or so. Don't add any more than 12 dumplings or it will get too bready and messy. I only used 8. You'll have leftover batter which you can fry up later.

I learned that the dumplings don't need to be down in the liquid. They can sit on top and they'll still cook if you leave the cover on.

Serve in low, flat bowls if you've got them, including 2-3 dumplings per bowl. I just used regular soup bowls, but it would be really pretty though to see all the different ingredients.

The tarragon, mushrooms, sweet onions, and brussels sprouts are really wonderful together. This would go great with some kind of winter squash as a side dish.

Things I'd do differently next time: Try the dish with more mushrooms, of the recommended variety. I'll definitely continue using the sweet onions if I have them around.

Approximate cost to prepare:

1 pound brussels sprouts - $2.00

3/4 pound mushrooms - $2.25

2 medium to large onions - $1.00

5 T. parsley, and 2 T. tarragon - $1.00

1/2 lemon - $.25

garlic, olive oil - negligible

Mushroom stock - $1.50 or so

The dumplings

1 cup flour - $.25

3/4 cup milk - $.20 (?)

parsley and tarragon (inc. above)

1 egg - $.25

salt, baking powder - negligible

TOTAL - $8.75 for 4 people

Asparagus Ragout (for a transitional season)

This dish has spring ingredients such as asparagus and peas, but it still has some winter ingredients in it, too, such as chard, carrots, and mushrooms. The recipe calls for chervil, an herb related to parsley, but I couldn't find any. The alternative was a mix of parsley and tarragon. I got lazy and just used tarragon - to great effect. I think I used almost twice as much as it called for, and it gave the dish this wonderful anise flavor.

This was my first time making buerre blanc (white butter, in french), a butter sauce. You really can't go wrong with butter. This sauce goes on top of the veggies and broth. You're supposed to serve this in individual bowls with a dollop of sauce on each, but I made this for a potluck, so I just put it in one big, pretty bowl and put little dollops all over the place. It's a beautiful dish with all the vegetables. I ate the leftovers for lunch several days in a row and it was delicious every time.

The recipe has you cook lots of vegetables separately in separate pans. I'll walk you through it the way I made it (the way the recipe recommends), but then I'll give you my recommendation about how to make this easier and have less cleanup at the end. My kitchen was a wreck when people arrived for the potluck. Thank goodness they like me for who I am and don't judge me based on a messy kitchen. :-)

This dish took about an hour. Here's how to get started:

Make the buerre blanc first. Put 1/4 cup white wine vinegar, 1/4 cup dry white wine, 2 T. diced shallot, and a pinch of salt in a saucepan. Simmer until only 2 T. remain. While it is simmering, cut 6-8 T. cold butter into small pieces. Turn off the heat and whisk in the butter pieces a couple at a time until it is all incorporated. The heat from the pan melts the butter bits and incorporates it into a thick white sauce. Season with a little pepper and set aside.

Then start the ragout: Slice the leaves off 1 bunch of chard. Cut the leaves into ribbons about an inch wide. Trim the stems into even planks and lice into strips about 3/8 inch wide and 3 inches long. (I think this is a little too long for bite sized pieces.) Bring 2-3 cups water to a boil, add some salt, and simmer the chard stems for a few minutes. Lay the leaves over the top and cook until tender, a few more minutes. Set aside.

Wash 8-12 slender carrots, and cut them in half lengthwise. (She says to leave them this size. I cut them into 3 inch pieces, which were a little too long.) Chop one small onion or leek (approx. 1/3 cup chopped). Wash 1 1/2 pounds asparagus and snapp off the tough tends. Cut it into 3 inch lengths. Heat 1 T. butter and 1 T. olive oil in a wide skillet with a lid. Cook the onion and carrots over medium-high heat for a few minutes to brown them a bit, then reduce the heat to medium. Add 1/2 cup dry white wine and let most of it sizzle away. Add 1 cup water and the asparagus. Season with salt and reduce the heat even more, cover, and cook until the asparagus and carrots are nearly tender (about 6 minutes.) Add 1/4 pound edible-pod peas, such as snow peas. Turn off the heat.

Heat another tablespoon of butter and olive oil over high heat. When the butter foams, add the mushrooms and quickly stir them about. Saute until they've browned a bit. Reduce the heat to medium and continue cooking until they've released and then reabsorbed their juices a bit. (About 8 minutes total.) Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Loosely arrange the vegetables into 4 pasta bowls. Distribute the chard and stems amoung them, then spoon several tablespoons of juice into each bowl. Add a dollop of the buerre blanc to each bowl, cover with the mushrooms, and garnish with the herbs.

Things I'd do differently next time: I'd cook the chard, and then set it aside in a bowl, reserving the cooking water in a jar in case I needed it for the broth later on. Then I'd use the same pan to cook the carrots, onions, asparagus and peas along with the broth. I would dump all this on top of the chard. Then I'd use the same pan to cook the mushrooms. I'd put the mushrooms in a small bowl and return all the other veggies and broth to the pan and warm through. I'd put this in individual bowls (or one big bowl), add the buerre blanc, then the mushrooms, then the herbs. This would cut down on the number of skillets to wash and the chard wouldn't be cold when you served it.

Alternatively, you could set aside the chard, and then cook pan of carrots, etc. and the pan of mushrooms at the same time. After you've turned off the heat to the carrots, you could add the chard in with the warm veggies and juice and then combine everything. This would cut out one pan and speed up the process a bit. You'd have to have all your veggies chopped first.

Approximate cost to prepare:

1/4 cup white wine vinegar - $.40
3/4 cup white wine - $1.50
2 T. shallot - $.40
8 T. butter - $.75
1 bunch chard - $2.50
one small onion - $.20
8-12 slender carrots - $2.00
1 1/2 pounds asparagus - $5.00
1/4 pound snow peas - $1.25
3/4 pound cremini mushrooms - $3.00
2 T. chervil or a mixture of parsley and tarragon - $.50 (I used half a bunch of tarragon, at $1.29 a bunch = $.65)
TOTAL - $17.00 for 4 or more people. 7 people had a serving of this at a potluck, and then I had it for lunch for 3 days. That's more like 10 servings.